How to sew a secret zipper?

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How to sew a secret zipper?

Secret zipper got its name because it is almost not visible on the finished product (most often it is dresses and skirts). The technique of sewing such a zipper is somewhat different from the sewing of an ordinary zipper. About how to sew a secret zipper, that is, so that it remains invisible, that's what we will talk about.

How to sew a secret zipper: stages

We will describe the technique of sewing in a zipper into an open seam (that is, not stitched). For visualization, imagine that we sew a zipper into the back seam of the dress (back), that is, our dress is not stitched along the back seam. In general, this usually distinguishes stitching of a conventional and secret zipper. However, there are those who sew a secret zipper into an already stitched seam.

Also, you can first see how to sew a secret zipper. Video lessons, workshops on this topic will help to consider the process in more detail.

Handmade stage

  1. The first thing you need to do is process the edges of your product. Use overlock, zigzag or oblique inlay.
  2. With chalk (or soap), mark the seals on the wrong side. They will be 1.5 centimeters.
  3. Also, with chalk, mark the lines for inserting a secret zipper (they will be between the edge of the product and the seam allowance line).
  4. Next, bend the allowances along the intended line (step 2) on the wrong side. Ironing is not worth it, just smooth it well (if the fabric is "capricious", you can press it with a warm ironing).
  5. Now open our lightning, lowering the "dog" to the limit. We apply each half of the zipper with the face of the braid (the fabric part of the zipper) on the bent off allowances of the product. At the same time, the top of the zipper should coincide with the edge of the neck of the back (remember, from our example). And, it is important (!): The teeth of a secret lightning must exactly coincide with the bent edge of the product, in any case not to go beyond.
  6. Baste first one half of the zipper, starting from the top (that is, from the neckline of the back, the waistline in the skirt, etc.). Attention: it is necessary to tackle, piercing only the braid of the zipper and the unbent allowance (and not both layers of the product, no seams on the front side). Do the same with the second half of the zipper (also starting from above). Secure basting well at the beginning and at the end.
  7. Close the zipper, check for bumps on the front side.

Work on a typewriter

Next, we need a special foot to attach the secret zippers.

  1. To show the place of the future seam (between the zipper teeth and its braid), you need to bend the teeth with your finger (so that the needle can stitch the lightning as close as possible to the teeth), put the protrusion of the foot on the prepared place for the seam. Lightning is laid under the foot so that the teeth are to the left of the needle.
  2. Sew one side (top) all the way into the clasp ("dog"). Leave the thread for the knot and start to attach the other half, also on top.
  3. Lightning sewn. Secure the ends of the threads with knots.
  4. Close the zipper.
  5. After that, you can already stitch our main seam on the back.
  6. Baste along the allowance line, folding the edges of the product to each other from the wrong side. In this case, the "tail" of our secret lightning should be slightly bent, and the basting should begin, just going to the line of the already sewn lightning, so that the transition could not be seen and there were no "holes".